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@Alcides Andrade It might be that the new update is making the 5G more sensitive to interference on channels. If you have a laptop or desktop that can access 5G WiFi, download the neat program "WiFiInfoView" from here: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html and run it. Wait for a couple of minutes for it to settle down and pick up your close neighbours WiFi SSID's and check if any close ones are on your same 5G channel. I use channel 36 on mine, and see no interference. If you don't have a manual for your router model, download one from the manufacturers site, check how to log in, and go to the settings, try changing the channel number to one that nobody else is using. If you test it in the same room as the TV, this will give you a better picture of what the TV will being getting.

@radtek2 That does sound rather like a B7 Firmware bug (it should be able to detect which is the "active" one). Have you by any chance left the Optical/Toslink cable still in place and connected somewhere, as well as the HDMI? It does seem odd though that the settings combine 2 different output methods in ONE option/setting. My older LG has them separate.

@radtek2 I seem to rmember on my LG there was a setting for the sound to ensure it is sent out via HDMI, rather than Optical or Internal speakers, did you do that on yours?

@Darlz Do you have other devices in the house working OK via Wifi, and do the settings on those show the correct SSID name? Have you rebooted your router, if not do that and retry. If still no luck, try unplugging the TV from the wall socket (or removing the plug from the back if it has the unpluggable sort and is easier). Leave it OFF for 5 minutes or so, then turn it back on, and retry. If your router is not too far from the TV, try using a LAN cable from the router, and plug it into the Ethernet LAN connection socket, try again. If you DO want to troubleshoot the WiFi more, see below: In the room where the TV is, do you actually see the WiFi signal strength/activity Bars Icon on your mobile phone (NOT the phone tower strength steps)? Bear in mind that modern routers use a 2.4GB band AND a 5GB band (NOTHING to do with 5G phones by the way). However, the 5GB band being a higher frequency means that the signal strength & quality drops off quickly the further your device (TV in your case) is from the router. SO: Does your phone (when used in the same room as the TV), show a GOOD signal on the WiFi bars when using the SAME WiFi that the TV is trying to use? The SSID names SHOULD be different to enable you to see which is which, but is it not always the case. What is the make and model of your router? Are you able to go into the Network Settings for your TV WiFi, and see if you can connect more stable on the 2.4GB band SSID? I know it will be limited to 150GBPS or 300GBPS, but still faster than 100GBP LAN speeds. If still unstable, and your TV is under warrantee, get the WiFi module inside it replaced (most of them are little WiFi/Blutooth Combo cards, plug-in replacements). The Bluetooth part is to support half of the Magic remote buttons/functions.

@Kuriko It sounds like a firmware bug, report it to LG support.

@Spinderella Do you have other devices in the house working OK via Wifi, and do the settings on those show the correct SSID name? Have you rebooted your router, if not do that and retry. If still no luck, try unplugging the TV from the wall socket (or removing the plug from the back if it has th eunpluggable sort and is easier). Leave it OFF for 5 minutes or so, then turn it back on, and retry. If your router is not too far from the TV, try using a LAN cable from the router, and plug it into the Ethernet Lan connection socket, try again. In the room where the TV is, do you actually see the WiFi signal strength/activity Bars Icon on your mobile phone?

@Diaa237 The Magic Remote is not natively set up to "emulate" the left or right Mouse buttons like on PC's/Laptops, as it is NOT like a mouse at all (other than they have BlueTooth commmunication). However, it is always possible that some APPS on the TV could software "emulate" that by requiring a particular coloured button to be pressed to be "equivalent" to a right-click, if it is ever needed for, say a compatibility reason inside a specific APP. Where are you seeing this "right-click" asked for, on some odd site on the inbuilt browser maybe? I am very curious about your question.

@Dave Barry Just curious what the make and model of your "Network Gateway" is? Have you checked the power settings on THAT - again because many home devices (routers etc) also have power settings that can "sleep" devices when there is no activity. I have them all set "OFF"/Disabled on my Billion Router (as there is no such thing as "perfect software/firmware", and some devices cannot resume the internal services - like WiFi or VOIP routines properly from sleep). It is possibly just "waking from sleep" rather than a full reboot? How do you "know" it is actually doing a reboot? The TV will NOT be making the Gateway sleep, it will most likely be it is dropping to a low-power state (sleep mode) when there is no activity, because of those default settings, that many folks do not change unless they fully read the manual or specs.

@Dave Barry It is Unlikely that ANY provider/site would renew a certificate daily. It costs money. When you say you have seen "it" reboot during the night, what are you referring to - Your Router, the TV itself, or the WiFi part of it. Many LG TV's use a common WiFi/BT (BlueTooth) module that supports both WiFi network, and the Magic Remotes that have half the buttons use BT and others InfraRed LED tramsmitter. It is a bit of a sensitive and unreliable module, and can be affected by Storm Damage and static. I even have my TV connected via one of those "spike protector" sockets, but mine still went pop for the BT side during a recent minor storm, so I cannot select my apps (but I use a Foxtel STB - so don't lose out too much while waiting for my spare). Just to make sure, check on any Power Saving settings - if they are present, set to off, or max power, as the equivalent things on a Laptop can "shutown" or "sleep" network cards and WiFi dongles when inactive, to save on power.

@Leonard King It may well be the update, BUT have you ensured that you have the latest spec (2.0 or 2.1) HDMI cables in use that fully support all your required eARC or ARC functions? It might just be that the latest updates has made the TV follow eARC spec more stringently.

@Surojit Bhattacharjee I beleive that the issue is due to DRM (Digital Rights Management), that blocks Copyrighted material being outputted to external devices. The YouTube app seems to be OK and has less problems with copyright, and so has a "safe" cast option by the sound of it. Others (especially the Sony products and the others) have to make sure that users are not violating the terms of use, by blocking outputs to "other" devices that could potentially record copyrighted material to "sell on for profit".

@ricecooker Was the update a WebOS/firmware update, or an Amazon APP update, or another app? Also, remove any other connected device temporarily for testing that you do not need (especially the one connected to HDMI4), then re-test the issue. If it was after the Amazon APP update, it could just be a buggy update.

@Thomas Devenney FYI: there are apparrently quite a few TV models with this sort of issue. If you have found thate Bose works, stick with those. If you really want to get the Samsung ones working, try using one of these (might not work with all models of TV, and I have never used one, so cannot comment, but for $7 maybe worth a shot)! https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wireless-Bluetooth-3-5mm-Audio-USB-Receiver-Adapter-Music-Dongle-AUX-A2DP-Car/401097002987

@Raymond 0144 This is all to do with DRM (Digital Rigths Management) and copyright. Any company allowing that to happen will get sued pretty quickly. What you CAN do (If your TV model supports it), is to use Time Machine (Called Time Machine II - i.e. Mark 2 - on later models). If it DOES, then plug a spare HDD or SSD into the back USB 2.0 (or a USB 3.0 spec slot if it has one), and it should trigger the preparation (setup) of it, to format it to the TV requirements. That should then allow the Time Machine APP to enable shceduled recordings, that you CAN watvch later of course, but you will NOT be able to play them elsewhere, as it is in a proprietary format that only the TV will understand (DRM and Copyright again). NOTE: you do NOT need to keep the TV on, ONLY ON STANDBY as it will wake up the TV tuner and the external disk when it needs to, 1 minute before the scheduled time (but the TV sreen will not be on).

@George Hofmeister I guess you meant "Faulty Wireless Modules". I did see some vidoes on YouTube about how to replace these. There was one I saw recently that showed one being removed, he brushed the dust off the ribbon cable connector, and put it back in. Not sure if that is a common problem, or if the WiFi modules are totally failing electronically (i.e. failed component inside). Obviously brushing the dust off is NOT going to fix that! Of course the OP could be right that the firmware upgrade has broken the functionality (especially if it has tightened up standards for use on another country, as is the case here - channel seperation, power output etc.)?

@Daniel Feiman First, what model TV is this, second, is the LAN cable using a "PLA" (Power Line Aaptor) device that uses your A/C house wiring to send your TCP/IP INternet traffic to /from your router, or is it directly connected? If the first one, is it (PLA at router or TV) plugged into its own socket, or into one of those "multi-socket" extension things?

@Hiren Chotaliya Is this intermittent? When on, how long does it stay on? Have you checked that the A/C mains plug at the back has not worked a bit loose (sometimes these IEC type "kettle" plugs back out slightly, and APPEAR to be fully in, but are not, so try pushing in a few more millimeters). They can also get burned/corroded internal contacts if left loose for some time, due to arcing). It is also worth checking the wall socket end too, especially if it is not a moulded plug type, or you use one of those "multi-plug" things, cheap brands can have poor contacts. Try using another A/C lead direct to the wall if you can, to eliminate that and any multi-socket first. Also check any HDMI plugs, as external devices can use CEC control lines to turn things on and off, and if loose, can confuse the electronics. If you have eliminated the above, it is possible that there may be a power-supply fault in the TV, or it is detecting an overcurrent from some faulty internal board or component. If under warrantee, see if you can get it repaired under that.

@datdarndot apologies - I checked the spec of your specific model, and it does NOT mention Time Machine in the specs, like it does on many others. However, under the main sections at: https://www.lg.com/ca_en/tvs/lg-43UK6500AUA it quotes this in the "Simply Smart" section (That DOES imply that you need a Smart Remote), BUT DOES also mention a recording capability. You might need to clarify this with the store you purchased from: "webOS™ 4.0 is a simple Smart operating system to use with our Magic Remote and refined launcher bar. Enjoy many of the features using just our intelligent voice recognition, quickly get to the apps you want, zoom in and record what's on your screen, connect to any Bluetooth device and even use your TV as a music player."

@datdarndot The USB2 ports will be fine for any good HDD plugged in a free slot. If one of them (or both) are blue colour inside, this is USUALLY a sign that it is USB3.0 spec, but as I said, it will work in a usb 2.0 port as well. Don't get confused by the port NUMBERS (1 or 2 etc), it does NOT refer to the spec or speed capability only the actual port number as a handy referecne to the ones being used at any time. TIME Machine II - all the ones I looked at recently said they are "Time Machine II compatible",so just try connecting an HDD disk into the USB, follow the prompts to format it. Tme Machine should then be ready to go.

@anand shinde I suspect that it knows you don't yet have an external HDD (Hard disk) plugged into a USB (Ideally the USB3 socket), so it cannot support recording until you do. By the way. did you seee my other post about typical/good HDD portable drives to use: " Bye the way, I find that Toshiba or Seagate portable USB3 dives are good for this, use this Google search term to see what is available in your area: "site:.uk toshiba portable drive" or "site:.uk seagate portable drive" without the quotes. The site thing limits sites to your country."

@anand shinde By the way, I find that Toshiba or Seagate portable USB3 dives are good for this, use this Google search term to see what is available in your area: "site:.uk toshiba portable drive" or "site:.uk seagate portable drive" without the quotes. The site thing limits sites to your country.

@anand shinde Thanks for the model number (43UK6780PTE). I see from the spec that it is "Time Machine Ready" so the functionality IS there, but it will need a small self-powered HDD (external backup type of hard disk) plugged into the USB3 socket to activate the recording functionality that the TV has. NOTE: the new disk when added, may trigger a recording "setup" automatically anyway, so be aware that it may well want to format it to the TV requirements (file structures, folder names etc), that may take a few minutes. Use Velcro or a cable tie to hold the external disk in a convenient place, so that it does not strain the connection cable (NEVER let it hang from the cable). ALSO: be aware that even when in standby, the TV will still have enough "smart electronic logic" active to do the scheduled recordings on its own, it does NOT need to be in the ON state, BUT DO NOT TURN IT OFF AT THE WALL SOCKET OBVIOUSLY! ☺️ Did you read the link for the smart remote info in the link I posted above? It may be a different one, and I am having a hard time finding the "Q.MENU" button, that in one of them is a button marked "123". If you had a separate manual for your remote, have a good read to see if it helps with the recording side. It MIGHT be the "settings" cog button on yours, I am not sure. I know that the smart remotes have a good voice command function, so press the button to activate the microphone and try saying "time machine". I find the voice command useful to get to "settings" with my older magic remote, as I can never remember how to get to it on my TV otherwise... 😊

@anand shinde Thanks for the model number. I see from the spec that it is "Time Machine Ready" so the functionality IS there, but it will need a small self-powered HDD (external backup type of hard disk) plugged into the USB3 socket to activate the recording functionality that the TV has. NOTE: the new disk when added, may trigger a recording "setup" automatically anyway, so be aware that it may well want to format it to the TV requirements (file structures, folder names etc), that may take a few minutes. Use Velcro or a cable tie to hold the external disk in a convenient place, so that it does not strain the connection cable (NEVER let it hang from the cable). ALSO: be aware that even when in standby, the TV will still have enough "smart electronic logic" active to do the scheduled recordings on its own, it does NOT need to be in the ON state, BUT DO NOT TURN IT OFF AT THE WALL SOCKET OBVIOUSLY! ☺️ Did you read the link for the smart remote info in the link I posted above? It may be a different one, and I am having a hard time finding the "Q.MENU" button, that in one of them is a button marked "123". If you had a separate manual for your remote, have a good read to see if it helps with the recording side. It MIGHT be the "settings" cog button on yours, I am not sure. I know that the smart remotes have a good voice command function, so press the button to activate the microphone and try saying "time machine". I find the voice command useful to get to "settings" with my older magic remote, as I can never remember how to get to it on my TV otherwise... 😊 Bye the way, I find that Toshiba or Seagate portable USB3 dives are good for this, use this Google search term to see what is available in your area: "site:.uk toshiba portable drive" or "site:.uk seagate portable drive" without the quotes. The site thing limits sites to your area.

@anand shinde FYI: Time Machine functions in newer TV models is now called Time machine II, and is driven mainly from the Magic Remote Q.MENU, so it might not be visible as an actual separate app. If you tell us your LG model number, we might be able to provide more relevant help for recording functionality, tips and info. In the meantime, have a read of this LG article: https://eguide.lgappstv.com/manual/gb/12017.html

@anand shinde FYI: Time Machine functions in newer TV models is now called Time machine II, and is driven mainly from the Magic Remote Q.MENU, so it might not be visible as an actual separate app. If you tell us your LG model number, we might be able to provide more relevant help for recording functionality, tips and info. In the meantime, have a read of this LG article: https://eguide.lgappstv.com/manual/gb/12017.html