PreCentral: Nexus 4 gains Touchstone charging thanks to clever hacking
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By pivotCE
I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say there are more HP TouchPads left in the world than there are their matching original barrel chargers. This means if you have a TouchPad today, you’re probably using a TouchStone, a computer, or any other random USB A charging brick to (very slowly) charge your 13 year old device. And it means you’ve seen the error message in the image above every time you’ve plugged it into anything other than the original barrel charger or a computer. Fun fact, you can trick the TouchPad into charging normally and not feeding you the message by creating your own custom micro USB or USB C cable if you’ve
link hidden, please login to view. Stuff You’ll Need
Assuming you have a micro USB (ie. non USB C modified TouchPad) you’ll need:
1. A 4-wire micro USB to USB A cable
2. and 1/4 watt resistors (1 each per cable)
3. Soldering iron and solder
4. Heat shrink or electrical tape
If you’re making a USB C cable but only want to use it with a USB A charger then you’ll need:
1. A 4 wire USB C to USB A cable
2. Items 2-4 above
If you’re making a true USB C to USB C cable that you plan to use with a USB C 3.1 charger you’ll need:
1.
2.
3. Any 2-wire cable or a 4-wire cable that you’ll cut the data wires out of (green and white typically) and that you’ll cut the ends from
4. Items 2-4 from the first section above
Prepare the Wires
Regardless of which cable you’re making, the end that goes to the TouchPad will need all 4 wires and the resistors. So grab the 4-wire cable of your choice and strip the ends, and I recommend pre-tinning them with some solder.
Build the TouchPad Side of the Cable
See the image below for how to arrange the resistors. If you’re making a USB A cable, go ahead and cut into two pieces, set aside the USB A side, and grab the micro or USB C for this part.. It doesn’t matter how far away from either end you go, it’s your choice. Strip the wires back so you have enough bare wire to work with.
1. Solder the ground (black) wire to one side of the 300k resistor.
2. Solder data- (green), data+ (white), the other side of the 300k resistor and one side of the 250k resistor together.
3. Then solder the other end of the 250k resistor to the red (power) wire.
Build the Charger Side of the Cable
If you’re making a USB A cable, then all you have left to do is reconnect power (red) and ground (black) to their corresponding colors on the TouchPad side of the cable, trim off the data lines from the USB A side, clean it all up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
If you’re making a USB C to USB C cable grab the USB C board I linked above and your 2-wire cable (or 4-wire that you’ve trimmed the data lines from). You’ll also have to cut the end off to make room for the new connector.
1. Pre-tin the board on the two outside pads marked as VCC and Gnd in the image below.
2. Solder on the red (power) wire to VCC and then black (ground) to Gnd. If you bought the housing and boards together, don’t forget to the housing on the wire before you start soldering. You also may need some super glue to keep the plastic housing from coming apart.
3. Back at the TouchPad side of the wire, take the other end of your 2-wire cable and attach red and black to their corresponding ends, clean it up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
Final Thoughts
You should now be able to use any charger you want to and the TouchPad will believe you’re plugged into a normal battery charger and will allow the normal charge rate flow through.
Note, you’ve effectively removed the ability to use this cable for Data since the data lines are no longer connected.
Also, for those who modded the TouchPad with USB C, the port already has 5.1k resistance but cannot communicate that to a USB C 3.1 charger with the added resistance on the data lines. This is why the TouchPad end of the USB C cable must be a “dumb” 4-wire USB C cable and the charger end needs the 5.1k resistance to tell the charger on that end to send power. This also means that you must remember which end is which, but don’t worry. Picking the wrong direction won’t hurt anything as the USB C charger won’t allow power since the wire doesn’t tell it to. I marked the TouchPad side of the USB C cable with a dab of orange paint pen.
Finally, I hope you found this helpful or at the very least entertaining! I had fun exploring the different ways of making this work and so feel free to give it a watch.
#webos4ever
The post first appeared on . Related posts:
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By News Reporter
Aligned With Vision of Achieving KRW 100 Trillion in B2B Revenue by 2030,
Company Enters MOU to Develop Next-Generation EV Charging Solutions
SEOUL, June 18, 2024 — LG Electronics (LG) recently signed a memorandum of understanding (MOU) and a definitive agreement for commercial electric vehicle (EV) charging in the United States with ChargePoint, a leading provider of networked charging solutions for EVs. LG anticipates that the MOU will accelerate the growth of its EV charging business. The MOU is also expected to further expedite the growth of LG’s B2B operations and support the company’s transformation into a Smart Life Solutions company.
ChargePoint, which has more than 306,000 active ports under management on its network, operates across the North America and Europe. Last year, LG CEO William Cho identified the EV charging business as LG’s new growth engine, and has committed to developing it into a trillion-KRW scale enterprise by 2030. With the recently signed MOU, LG will be able to leverage ChargePoint’s expansive network to explore EV charger supply opportunities around the globe, while ChargePoint, its customers and its drivers stand to benefit from LG’s reliable, high-quality EV charging solutions.
Enhancing EV Charging Business Through LG and ChargePoint’s Synergy
Through the agreement, LG augments its existing client base by securing ChargePoint, which possesses an extensive portfolio of charging solutions, as a customer. Meanwhile, ChargePoint will receive a stable supply of LG’s high-quality EV chargers.
The new partnership is also expected to boost the competitiveness of both companies with regard to securing contracts for public sector charging infrastructure projects. Crucial factors determining the selection of business operators for U.S. government projects include domestic production, quality and security levels. LG’s EV chargers, which are made in Texas, have received Underwriter Laboratories certification for charging stability. Additionally, ChargePoint cloud software products have been authorized by the Federal Risk and Authorization Management Program.
LG has established itself as a trusted business partner in North America through its various B2B concerns, including hotel TVs, digital signage and robot solutions. LG and ChargePoint will collaborate to expand their charging business, targeting new customers as well as LG’s existing B2B partners in hospitality, healthcare, retail and other sectors.
Bolstering Market Position by Leveraging LG DOOH Ads and LG ThinQ
As part of the MOU, the two companies are exploring the viability of integrating LG’s existing platforms used in other sectors – such as the LG DOOH Ads digital out of home (DOOH) advertising solution for commercial displays – into their EV charging solutions. Applying the LG DOOH Ads solution to EV charger displays will enable the convenient broadcast of diverse advertisements and enhancement of B2B customer experience.
LG and ChargePoint also plan to develop a smart home solution that connects EV chargers and household devices via the LG ThinQ smart home platform and ChargePoint’s award-winning Home Flex home charging solution. Through its collaborations with ChargePoint, LG expects to elevate its position in the highly-competitive EV charger market and reinforce its reputation as a reliable and innovative EV charging solutions provider.
“There is incredible synergy between our two companies, and we fully anticipate that this partnership will help LG to become a global leader in the EV charging business,” said Suh Heung-kyu, vice president and head of the Electric Vehicle Charging business division of LG Business Solutions Company. “LG will continue to pursue strategic collaborations to advance innovation and further strengthen its status as a total EV charging solutions provider.”
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By Packrat
Hi,
The SmartShare (on win10) using the Video Player work great!!! Thanks to the LG+WebOS team.
Seems the Video player app doesn't support the full srt "standard".
If there is better place to post or file bugreports please let me know.
I was watching a mkv with a srt and that works great but it seems that some of the SRT codes are not implemented.
Could support be added, or alternately just drop the codes so they don't show up on screen? ( Open curly "a" and a number and close curly bracket)
{\a3} Details are below.
Thanks
Frank
-------snip snip----------------
WebOS: 05.10.25 (or tv fw?)
TV: 65UM7300AUE NA model (please keep making real 4K IPS screens)
SmartShare V2.3.1712.1201
Reference for SRT codes:
link hidden, please login to view {\a3} (indicates that the text should start appearing on line 3)
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By pivotCE
I finally put a touchstone in my car. For those counting at home (minus my almost two year departure from webOS to Android), it took me 3 years to work up the chutzpah to try the install. But I did it. What took me so long? I’m glad you asked.
Why now?
You’ve seen it done a lot I’m sure.
link hidden, please login to view. But something always bothered me about the installs I’d seen. There were too many wires, the Touchstone was glued or stuck onto the dash using adhesive, and I always thought using the cigarette lighter (12V socket), or worse, a 3-prong power inverter was ugly (and kinda lazy). What kept me from installing one in my car was that I told myself if I was ever going to do it, it had to follow 3 rules:
1. No wires! It had to be clean.
2. It had to be modular. I might want to sell the car but keep the Touchstone set-up.
3. It must be powered from the car’s battery or fuse box.
The problem was, I didn’t know where to begin.
The research
I knew adding power to the car was possible from stuff I’d read online. But everyone made it look so simple and I’m a car-wiring n00b. So I did what every online-savvy I-want-to-learn-something-new person does, YouTube. This video will teach you the fundamentals of installing an Add-A-Fuse or Expandable Circuit as it’s called in the video.
The other important thing to know in all of this is how to splice cables. With my time as a musician and tech hobbyist, splicing cables is pretty standard stuff. I did have to read up on splicing the USB cable that I wanted to use to ensure I could hide the cable. Google was my friend.
What I used to do it
The parts I ordered:
(I actually got these from AutoZone, link for example only) (the item here now looks a little different than it did when I bought it) The tools I used:
Solder/Soldering Iron Wire cutter/stripper Ratchet set Heat shrink Trouble spots
I ordered the Add-A-Fuse twice. I also ordered the Hardwire Barewire twice. Why? Because I never truly had it all grounded properly to begin with and I thought my parts were broken. I ordered new parts. And unsurprisingly, those didn’t work either. Until I tried a different spot for the ground that followed the instructions for bare metal in the video. Tada! Power.
I originally used electrical tape, the crimp joint that comes on the Add-A-Fuse, and left the ground wire bare. These are all areas that are recipes for disaster in a vibrating car. To overcome those areas, I opted to solder each splice and add heat shrink over it. I even coated the bare ground wire in solder to get a better connection behind the bare metal bolt.
Getting the USB cable through the holder was a pain. I tried carving with a knife, using a small dremel cutting wheel, and then finally opted to melt my way in there with the soldering iron. Don’t judge me. It worked.
Super quick summary on how I got power
Cut USB ends off Barewire and USB angled cable, soldered and heat shrinked together Stripped loose wire end of Barewire back, snipped off crimp connector and stripped Add-A-Fuse wire back, soldered and heat shrinked positive leads (red wires) together Added solder to ground wire from Barewire and secured it to the bare metal bolt Found a switchable fuse port in the fuse box of my car and bare metal bolt for ground Popped out the fuse, installed that fuse into the Add-A-Fuse, installed a 5 amp fuse into the second port of the Add-A-Fuse and plugged it into the port in my fuse box Plugged the USB cable into my touchstone and started my car. IT’S ALIVE! Photo Gallery
Each photo has my notes as well. Enjoy.
#webosforever
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By News Reporter
As if the
link hidden, please login to view wasn't enough, has announced a new porting project: Open webOS on the Google Nexus 7. The built by Asus was the premiere launch devices for Android 4.1 Jelly Bean, and thanks to , it is the perfect fit for WebOS Ports's next porting adventure. Seeing how much we loved the small seven-inch TouchPad Go, it's no surprise that the equally small Nexus 7 tablet was on the radar of WebOS Ports. Though larger, the 1280x800 screen on the Nexus 7 is close enough in pixel dimensions to , so a lot of the work put into the smartphone project could be easily translated to the Nexus 7.
How easy? This work was led by WebOS Ports's over the course of about a week while he was on winter break from college. The port was accomplished with the Galaxy Nexus project in conjunction with , created by (an engineer at , though he also leads , which grew out of Sailfish ancestors Maemo and Meego), a library that allows for "bionic-based [Android] hardware adaptations in glibc systems", in essence making it easier to translate between the designed-for-Android hardware and like the . This means that with LibHybris the WebOS Ports team won't have to write drivers from scratch for different Android-based devices they might wish to attack. In addition to LibHybris, the Nexus 7 leverages the work of those involved in Merproject, , and .
A video of the port in action is after the break, and as an early alpha we're rather impressed. Open webOS on the Nexus 7 runs generally smoothly (there's some intermittent and infrequent lag, which isn't anything too surprising at this stage) and has improved considerably from our last look at Open webOS on the Galaxy Nexus. In addition there's now an -based Settings app that allows you to toy with things like the Wi-Fi and brightness settings and the new app (also Enyo 2 based). The port also supports the classic webOS tablet keyboard, the , and forward-swipe-driven screen rotation. Essentially, it's like webOS on the TouchPad Go, except on the slimmer, lighter, faster, newer Nexus 7 and more open source-y.
Oh, and did we mention that it runs untethered now? Yeah, it does that. Being able to use Open webOS on the device without being is a big deal, and we're really quite psyched to see that happen. You still have to boot from a desktop, but after that you can unplug the cable and get on with the webOSing.
The Nexus 7 Open webOS port is still in its early stages, but thanks to the work done on the Galaxy Nexus port it's come a long way in a relatively short time. We're looking forward to what's coming next.
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