[pivotCE] LuneOS receives praise from LWN.net
-
Similar Topics
-
By pivotCE
I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say there are more HP TouchPads left in the world than there are their matching original barrel chargers. This means if you have a TouchPad today, you’re probably using a TouchStone, a computer, or any other random USB A charging brick to (very slowly) charge your 13 year old device. And it means you’ve seen the error message in the image above every time you’ve plugged it into anything other than the original barrel charger or a computer. Fun fact, you can trick the TouchPad into charging normally and not feeding you the message by creating your own custom micro USB or USB C cable if you’ve
link hidden, please login to view. Stuff You’ll Need
Assuming you have a micro USB (ie. non USB C modified TouchPad) you’ll need:
1. A 4-wire micro USB to USB A cable
2. and 1/4 watt resistors (1 each per cable)
3. Soldering iron and solder
4. Heat shrink or electrical tape
If you’re making a USB C cable but only want to use it with a USB A charger then you’ll need:
1. A 4 wire USB C to USB A cable
2. Items 2-4 above
If you’re making a true USB C to USB C cable that you plan to use with a USB C 3.1 charger you’ll need:
1.
2.
3. Any 2-wire cable or a 4-wire cable that you’ll cut the data wires out of (green and white typically) and that you’ll cut the ends from
4. Items 2-4 from the first section above
Prepare the Wires
Regardless of which cable you’re making, the end that goes to the TouchPad will need all 4 wires and the resistors. So grab the 4-wire cable of your choice and strip the ends, and I recommend pre-tinning them with some solder.
Build the TouchPad Side of the Cable
See the image below for how to arrange the resistors. If you’re making a USB A cable, go ahead and cut into two pieces, set aside the USB A side, and grab the micro or USB C for this part.. It doesn’t matter how far away from either end you go, it’s your choice. Strip the wires back so you have enough bare wire to work with.
1. Solder the ground (black) wire to one side of the 300k resistor.
2. Solder data- (green), data+ (white), the other side of the 300k resistor and one side of the 250k resistor together.
3. Then solder the other end of the 250k resistor to the red (power) wire.
Build the Charger Side of the Cable
If you’re making a USB A cable, then all you have left to do is reconnect power (red) and ground (black) to their corresponding colors on the TouchPad side of the cable, trim off the data lines from the USB A side, clean it all up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
If you’re making a USB C to USB C cable grab the USB C board I linked above and your 2-wire cable (or 4-wire that you’ve trimmed the data lines from). You’ll also have to cut the end off to make room for the new connector.
1. Pre-tin the board on the two outside pads marked as VCC and Gnd in the image below.
2. Solder on the red (power) wire to VCC and then black (ground) to Gnd. If you bought the housing and boards together, don’t forget to the housing on the wire before you start soldering. You also may need some super glue to keep the plastic housing from coming apart.
3. Back at the TouchPad side of the wire, take the other end of your 2-wire cable and attach red and black to their corresponding ends, clean it up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
Final Thoughts
You should now be able to use any charger you want to and the TouchPad will believe you’re plugged into a normal battery charger and will allow the normal charge rate flow through.
Note, you’ve effectively removed the ability to use this cable for Data since the data lines are no longer connected.
Also, for those who modded the TouchPad with USB C, the port already has 5.1k resistance but cannot communicate that to a USB C 3.1 charger with the added resistance on the data lines. This is why the TouchPad end of the USB C cable must be a “dumb” 4-wire USB C cable and the charger end needs the 5.1k resistance to tell the charger on that end to send power. This also means that you must remember which end is which, but don’t worry. Picking the wrong direction won’t hurt anything as the USB C charger won’t allow power since the wire doesn’t tell it to. I marked the TouchPad side of the USB C cable with a dab of orange paint pen.
Finally, I hope you found this helpful or at the very least entertaining! I had fun exploring the different ways of making this work and so feel free to give it a watch.
#webos4ever
The post first appeared on . Related posts:
-
By pivotCE
Well, it’s 2024 and technology continues to advance. The TouchPad isn’t new by any means, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be slightly modernized to be more convenient today. Specifically, it is entirely possible to convert the TouchPad’s Micro USB port to USB C for charging and USB storage access. I’ll show you how.
This is a tough mod which requires micro-soldering and modifying a PCB which you will have a hard time sourcing a replacement for without buying another TouchPad. Proceed at your own peril.
Tools for the Job
To do this mod you’ll need a few things for tools and parts. Here’s a list of what I used:
– Needle nose pliers/tweezers
– USB C boards with 5.1k resistors
link hidden, please login to view
– Soldering iron, solder, flux and a hot air station
– Flush cuts
– Dremel with cutting or sanding wheel
– 28 AWG wire or smaller. 30 AWG is pretty good but any wire around 0.25mm to 0.5mm should work.
– Small file and screwdriver set
– Painter’s and kapton tape
– Metal spudger Disassemble the TouchPad
This is where you’re going to want to get that metal spudger out and be very careful not to snap clips. I can’t explain it better than iFixit already did so go check out their and then come back here.
Modify the USB Connector Board by Removing the Micro Port
There are a few ways to remove the Micro USB port. I added a bunch of flux and coated all the connectors in fresh leaded solder and then used a hot air station set to 800 degrees while wiggling the port very slightly with needle nose pliers. You don’t have to be particularly careful here so if you want to cut the port off with the dremel or the flush cuts or just rip it off with the pliers, (I don’t recommend it but…) that’s fine. We’re not using the pads it’s soldered to anyway. You should STILL be careful not to crack the board. Go slow. Be patient.
Trim the USB C Board
We need to expose the USB C port a bit on this board so let’s cut it down. Grab the painter’s tape and flip the USB C board upside down. You’ll see a small trace between the front and rear anchor points on the right side, which we don’t want to cut. Mark the tape just on the other side of that trace like I did. Dremel along the tape line until you get to the port. You can then use needle nose pliers, a flat file, and/or flush cuts to remove the rest of the board from the bottom of the port.
Prepare the USB Connector Board for the USB C Port
We need to slide the port into the old space so grab the painter’s tape again and mark off the area I marked to make room for the USB C port. You can place the port up to it like I did and use that as a guide. Grab your dremel again or a similar tool and cut out what you marked off. When you’re done, the USB C port should slide easily into the groove. It will fit tighter when we add the kapton tape in a later step.
Make Room in the TouchPad for the Added Thickness of the USB C Board
The USB C board will sit underneath the USB connector board so we have to make room by trimming away the plastic underneath. For this you’ll need to use flush cuts or any other tool you have to chip away. You could use the dremel for this if you’d like. Be careful to not go beyond the first inner layer. Beyond that is the outer shell of the TouchPad. There’s no real method here, just cut out the screw posts and chip away. Use the pictures below as a guide.
Cut the USB C Hole from the Old Micro USB Hole
To open the micro USB hole enough to fit the USB C port, take a rounded file to the left and right of both sides and just file a little bit at at time. Use a small flat file to widen the top and bottom of the port. This process is just trial and error. File a little and then grab the USB C board to test. The port will need to fit inside the hole a bit so you can push it through from the outside to test the hole size if that’s easier. Note: the USB C board will likely not rest on the bottom of the TouchPad and will float a little. This is good because it makes room for your wires and a little kapton tape underneath.
Tape the USB C Board
Since we hacked away at the USB connector board it’s possible we’ve provided the perfect environment for creating shorts! Oh no! So get out the kapton tape because we’re going to add a layer on both sides. You’ll see how I did it on one side below. Do it on both sides. You’ll also notice how I did not cover those two small square contacts just at the bottom of the tape. That’s because we need them.
Where To Get Power and Data
You’ll see the diagrams below which I’ve marked with VBUS (power), data in, data out, and ground. Obviously the old port is gone and most if its pads, but I wanted to show that both sides of the board have the connections. You could possibly do this mod differently, and if you so choose, hopefully these help.
A quick note: this mod can be done with a 4-pin USB C port. That would give you power and data just like with the USB C board I’m using in this guide, however, a 4-pin USB C board will not charge with a USB C charger (ie USB 3.1). The board I’m using in this guide provides the ability to use any charger because it comes pre-built with 5.1k resistors wired to CC1 and CC2 to ground. This is the trick that tells the USB C chargers to send power to the device.
Solder the USB C Board into the USB Connector Board
This isn’t a “how to solder tutorial” so hit up youtube and find a good tutorial that works for you. In general though, use flux, pre-tin the VBUS, Ground, D-, and D+ pads on the USB C board as well as the points on the bottom of the USB connector board.
Now for the tricky part, I didn’t list it in the Tools section above, but it would really help to have magnification or a digital microscope for this. I have these things and I used both. You might have steadier hands and better eyes than me. The picture below was my first attempt of the three TouchPads I modded, and it’s not my best soldering work, but fundamentally, this is what yours should look like.
Put the Pieces Together
You can use a bit of kapton tape to secure the wires in place a bit more if you’d like but it’s not required. It won’t short since it’s only plastic underneath. This is all press fit into place, but if you’re uncomfortable with that, you can add a little hot glue under the board as you put it back into the TouchPad. You don’t have to put the metal shield back into place if you don’t want to. It’s all a pretty tightly fit and if you find the TouchPad screen isn’t as flush as you want, just leave the metal shield off. A little kapton tape right on top would be fine instead.
Congrats, You Now Have USB C
I did this mod on three TouchPads and each one works fine with any USB charger I could find, including USB C port having USB 3.1 chargers. I can also confirm the data connection works just like it should to connect via USB mode on PC. Sadly, this doesn’t do anything to stop webOS from telling you the charger you’re using isn’t the original TouchPad barrel charger, but you can make a custom cable to stop that which I’ll cover in a future article on pivotCE.
#webOS4ever
The post first appeared on . Related posts:
-
By pivotCE
link hidden, please login to view hold a number of events. This year’s will be of interest to fans of webOS phones, tablets and other computing devices of the past. The festival is held at the and runs over three days from the 12th to 14th of April. The festival includes three elements:
– some with modifications to function in the modern environment. and . . For readers of this blog, representation of webOS devices will be in two of those areas. Jon W of the is attending over the weekend and will give a 50 minute talk at 900am on Saturday the 13th. The consignment shop will have a small selection of webOS devices for those who are interested.
So if you are in the area, why not go along?
If you can’t make it, you can follow along via the and TouchPads are available remotely at
Discussion is at the . You can read more .
Picture Credit: .
The post first appeared on . Related posts:
-
By pivotCE
Sooo that was a really long time since a release, but
link hidden, please login to view are still around and active as ever! We have continued making updates and producing testing images. But a lot happened that resulted in us not putting out a proper release out in the past few years.
Those who have stayed in touch with the community will know there has been some turmoil with the closure of the webOS Nation forums last year. Things stabilised over the last year as people converged around the and made plans on the associated . Much of the old information from webOS Nation was preserved thanks to the and can still be accessed, if imperfectly. We have now set up a that largely replicates the old layout and is ready for fresh content.
If you are eager to find out what we’ve been working on and to try out the new release, read on…
The (Jenkins) builder infrastructure we had available previously decided to have a number of malfunctions, leading it to be no longer available to us. So for now we’re back to our own builders for building all the images, which isn’t great, but at least we’re still building and providing images! We are now using , which means newer base components like systemd, pulseaudio and wayland.
Since the last release LuneOS has gone through a major rework under the hood. To summarize:
We moved from Qt5 to (6.5.2 included in this release). We have moved away from our own compositor (luna-next) to the one provided by LG in called luna-surfacemanager. We are now using LG’s WAM (WebAppManager) instead of our own custom one together with LG’s fork of Chromium (94). A major rebase of all components shared with webOS OSE to be based on the now. This included a migration to Enhanced ACG which provides a lot tighter security for LS2 calls from apps and services. This all was an enormous amount of work behind the screens but little visible to the end user, however this does offer clear benefits going forward being:
A shared code-base with LG, which means less custom components and maintenance. Years of field tested code on LG production devices which offers more stability. In this process we were able to keep backwards compatibility for apps and services. Easier to upgrade to latest OSE components, since we have migrated almost all remaining components that were still not based on the latest webOS OSE or on Open webOS. (125 components were migrated in total, 15 components are still to be migrated). In the meanwhile we have also been working hard to support the newly released devices such as the PinePhone, PinePhonePro and PineTab2 which are affordable devices which can run a very close to mainline kernel and a multitude of OS-es. We now support booting off on Pinephone.
The new close to mainline kernel for the Pine64 devices allows them to run things like out of the box!
All other supported Android devices are now based on 9.0.
So what is ahead for the near future?
Our focus will be on the mainline devices and emulator (), however we will try to keep support for the Android/Halium based targets as well.
Upgrade to latest Chromium 108 released by LG recently Work on audio & multimedia infrastructure provided by webOS OSE to get it working in LuneOS Work on camera infrastructure Try to get a mainline kernel working for Tenderloin, Hammerhead, Mido and Tissot. Improve/add QML components and add new basic apps to be used such as Camera, Flashlight, Audio Player, Video Player Piggyback off some of the work done by the . Provide a GSI image for newer Android (9.0+) based devices, this would allow a standard image to boot on most modern Android devices v.s. building a device specific one for each device. Known issues:
Battery usage is on the high side No audio in webapps (we decided not to spend time on this, seeing we plan to update Chromium soon anyway) The Usual:
Sign up for. Get involved and [ UPDATE https://pivotce.com/2014/09/22/webos-ports-help-wanted/ ] Feel free to download the updated builds to get started. Currently supported targets: PinePhone, PinePhonePro, PineTab2, Qemux86-64 (Virtualbox), all with mainline kernel. Tenderloin, Hammerhead, Tissot, Mido, Rosy, Mako (Android 9.0/Halium based with their respective Android kernels (3.4 and newer)). RaspberryPi 3 and RaspberryPi4 might work too, however we haven’t tested this ourselves.
. And remember we don’t do timelines.
Don’t forget to contact us with any questions and feel free to join the discussion on the . Catch us on Twitter @webosports on IRC: Libera:#webos-ports, or email [email protected].
We will see you shortly again with a new release!
Picture credit: from Pixabay
The post first appeared on . Related posts:
-
By pivotCE
The webOS community may be a bit smaller these days but it’s no less devoted to the platform. WebOS Ports is a small team of developers. As you can imagine, it is a few people to maintain a full OS that consists of thousands of components. Things are starting to come together for LuneOS, with the current major rebase and stable release. But we still need your help.
As nice as it is to have some additional folk contributing, developing, and working on issues, we still need more developers to get involved to make this community project really take off.
“Our focus is core functionality”
We cannot stress enough that we are building an OS focused on core app integration that is simple, beautiful, and user-centric. Right now, function comes first. If we had a penny for every developer that knew some web code and could make a beautiful static mock-up of an app that didn’t do a thing in the backend and then said “I did my part, it’s up to you to make it work”…well, we’d have a lot of pennies.
Developer requirements
Once core app integration happens we will need HTML/CSS smart people. But to be an asset to the team, you need to have a good grasp on any or all of these technologies:
Javascript C node.js C++ QML Qt Yocto Graphics design Are you decent at some of these, but might need help from time to time? That’s fine! We’re a community, remember? Hit up the
link hidden, please login to view and/or channel and ask! Get the bugs out!
We have several applications already available but many are placeholders or have basic functionality. Some of the apps are almost fully functional like Settings. But even Settings has bugs and can use refinement. OK there are bugs everywhere! (If only it were as easy as a can of Raid to fix them)! We’ve received lots of questions about how to get plugged into the project quickly. Easy! Head over to our to see current issues. Find an area where you think you can help and then find us on or (see below) to talk about it.
Some examples of areas that need bug fixing are:
Email: Some minor bug fixes Settings: Add Settings when needed Phone: Further polishing Calendar: Google C+Dav integration needs updating to adopt for Google’s changes Browser: Rework UI to be more webOS/LuneOS like And more. Core Apps/Features/Backend magic
The Open webOS project released several core applications that were Enyo1 based. These apps are in LuneOS
Messaging: Needs a rework or rewrite to give proper functionality similar to legacy webOS PDF needs converting to QML. LuneOS also needs a media player app (maybe reuse/rework the webOS OSE app for this?). The C+Dav connector is there, but it needs updating for various changes by Google. It also needs testing for other providers. Additional IM connectors would be good to implement (Telegram, Signal) etc, there are existing plugins exist for Pidgin/libpurple that can be used. Looks aren’t everything
As you can see, to really make stuff work first, most of what we need is in the backend. It’s the old battle between form and function. Which comes first? Designers will argue form! But Ports is focused on the core functionality that has to work first and look pretty later. It’s a hard pill to swallow and we get that, but when building an OS, it’s the most important thing. If it looks pretty but doesn’t work, the project loses potential users. If it works but doesn’t look pretty it will at least show promise and that encourages positive feedback. And with a community led project, if you don’t have good feedback you’ve already lost.
Additional help wanted
Ports is looking to expand our public relations presence. If you are located outside of the United States or more specifically speak a different language than English and would like to help us advertise and direct interested people toward LuneOS and WebOS Ports, please let us know.
We are also looking for a WordPress “expert” for a new site we’ll be setting up soon. Are you good at making tutorials?
We have several “How to install LuneOS guides” on the wiki. If you’d like to make friendly guides, that’d be great!
And finally, we need a “wiki-meister”. Someone that really knows the ins and outs of running a mediawiki!
Get involved
Everyone can help in some way. We need testers and bug reports! Sign up on the , contact us to let us know that you signed up and what your username is, and we’ll upgrade your account so you can post issues.
Developers please join us on and/or drop by the IRC channel
How to Contact WebOS Ports
Want to get involved? Have a question? Get in touch with us.
[email protected]
Twitter:
IRC (Libera):
Telegram:
Issue Tracker:
User Support Forums
Join the forum .
The post first appeared on . Related posts:
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.