Quantcast
Jump to content

[pivotCE] Guide: Saving Apps From The App Catalog Part 1: nodeleteipk patch


Recommended Posts

Posted

The time has come; HP has finally shut off the App Catalog payment service. This means that as of November 1, you can no longer purchase new paid apps from the App Catalog. However, you can still download apps that you have previously purchased and can acquire new free apps until January 15th. After that point, the App Catalog will be gone for good (at least the official one will…) and you’ll have no way to restore your apps. So, you’ll want to make sure that you’ve backed them up. This guide will walk you through the primary app backup method: saving IPKs when you download and update apps.

There are several ways to backup in webOS. Since this is just one of them, expect subsequent howto articles on other methods.

What is an IPK?

Named for their file extension (.ipk), an IPK is a package that contains all of the bits that make up an app, as well as all of the information necessary to successfully install the app on a webOS device. Its name includes the company’s name, the app name, the version of the app and the device architecture (ie. the IPK file for the latest version of the phone Facebook app is named com.palm.app.facebook_1.5.62_all.ipk). “com.palm.app” represents the company (Palm/HP), facebook represents the app name, 1.5.62 is the version of the app, and all of it means that this is a package that will run on all architectures that webOS will support.

When you download an app (either paid or free) from the App Catalog, your device will download the IPK from HP’s servers, install the app, and then remove the IPK so that it doesn’t take up extra space.

Why this method of backup?

This method is the preferred method because it allows you to take a backup of the “cleanest” version of the app – the package issued directly from the manufacturer. Other methods will attempt to rebuild the IPKs using data from an already installed app, so you run the risk of it not working quite right, especially if the app does something quirky as part of its setup process. So, they should only be relied upon if the IPK is not available from the App Catalog, or if you will lose critical data and do not have another device that you can download the IPK to.

Let’s Get Started

This guide assumes that you have followed the instructions in

link hidden, please login to view
, and that your device is ready for patching. Please note that we will be using webOS Quick Install for this process as Preware does not support installing patches that don’t come from an official feed.

Here’s what you have to do:

  1. Download and install the nodeleteipk patch.
  2. Check App Availability.
  3. Delete Apps.
  4. Re-download Apps.
  5. Save downloaded IPKs.

Step 1: Get the nodeleteipk patch

Typically, after installing an app, the App Catalog will delete the IPK that it came from. However, early last year, forum user GMMan learned that there was a configuration file option that would tell your device not to delete the IPK, allowing you to keep it for backup. He put together some detailed instructions, and also built a patch to make things nice and easy.

To install this patch:

  1. Download the patch from the first post of  and save it to a place that you can access.
  2. Plug your device into your computer and when asked if you want “USB Mode” or “Just Charge”, pick “Just Charge”.
  3. Launch webOS Quick Install.
  4. Make sure that your device shows up in the upper right hand corner. If this is your first time running the tool you may be asked to install novacom drivers. These are what the tool uses to communicate with your phone. In that case, just follow the prompts.
  5. Click on the green plus icon on the right hand side of the window, navigate to the file that you downloaded, and hit select.
  6. Click the “Install” button and wait for the tool to install the package. When it is done, the list of files to install will be empty, and you’ll be good to go.

Step 2: Check App Availability

In the meantime since you originally purchased the app, it may have been pulled from the App Catalog. Open the App Catalog app on your device and run a search for each app that you plan to back up. If the search comes up empty, the app has been pulled for some reason and is no longer available. DO NOT DELETE IT FROM YOUR DEVICE. There are other methods of backing up these apps, which will be covered in a later guide.

If you do find it, you are good to proceed.

Step 3: Delete Apps

NOTE: Deleting an app will remove all of it’s data from your device. This means that you will lose data such as game progress, logins, settings and other data when you remove it. Make sure that the application’s data is backed up before you delete it. If you do not have a way to back up the application data, there are other methods of backing up these apps, which will be covered in a later guide. As a start check out .

For each app that you plan to re-download, delete it. This can be done by:

  1. Opening the “Software Manager” application
  2. Scrolling to the application that you wish to delete
  3. Swiping right to delete
  4. Confirming that you would actually like to delete the app from the dialog.

On a phone you can also hold down the Opt key and touch the app you want to delete. A confirmation pop-up will appear. TouchPad users can also delete applications by holding their finger down on the application icon until a little “x” appears. They can then tap the “x” and confirm that they want to delete the app.

Step 4: Re-download apps

Open up the App Catalog app, search for any apps that you would like to re-download, and tap the download button beside them (on TouchPad) or open up the app’s details page and tap download (other devices). This will trigger the app to start downloading and installing, while saving the IPK.

Step 5: Save Downloaded IPKs

At this point, you should have a collection of IPKs stored on your device representing all of the apps that you wanted to save.

Plug your device into your computer, and when asked if you want “USB Mode” or “Just Charge”, pick “USB Mode”. The USB Mode icon will appear on your device’s screen, and a new drive with your device’s model name will appear where your USB drives normally do. (Desktop for Mac users, My Computer for Windows users).

Open up this drive and navigate to the “downloads” directory. This is where everything that your device downloads, including IPKs, gets stored. Copy any file that ends in IPK to your computer as a backup, and I also recommend copying them to an additional place, such as a CD/DVD, flash drive, or cloud storage drive, as a further backup.

At this point, you’re done. You’ve successfully backed up your apps, and can delete the IPKs from your device to clear up some storage space. Just make sure that they’re kept in a safe place in case you ever need them.

What’s Next?

Preware and webOS Quick Install allow you to take IPKs that you backed up from the App Catalog or downloaded from other sources (such as homebrew) and install them on your device, meaning that you will be able to reinstall your apps after the App Catalog shuts down.

In the meantime, you have two and a half months to get anything that is both free and interesting from the App Catalog. Download and back up whatever you can.

While will continue to be available through the , for most of these apps, when January 15th rolls around, they will be gone for good. Save them while you can.



  • Similar Topics

    • By pivotCE
      I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say there are more HP TouchPads left in the world than there are their matching original barrel chargers. This means if you have a TouchPad today, you’re probably using a TouchStone, a computer, or any other random USB A charging brick to (very slowly) charge your 13 year old device. And it means you’ve seen the error message in the image above every time you’ve plugged it into anything other than the original barrel charger or a computer. Fun fact, you can trick the TouchPad into charging normally and not feeding you the message by creating your own custom micro USB or USB C cable if you’ve
      link hidden, please login to view. Stuff You’ll Need
      Assuming you have a micro USB (ie. non USB C modified TouchPad) you’ll need:
      1. A 4-wire micro USB to USB A cable
      2. and 1/4 watt resistors (1 each per cable)
      3. Soldering iron and solder
      4. Heat shrink or electrical tape
      If you’re making a USB C cable but only want to use it with a USB A charger then you’ll need:
      1. A 4 wire USB C to USB A cable
      2. Items 2-4 above
      If you’re making a true USB C to USB C cable that you plan to use with a USB C 3.1 charger you’ll need:
      1.
      2.
      3. Any 2-wire cable or a 4-wire cable that you’ll cut the data wires out of (green and white typically) and that you’ll cut the ends from
      4. Items 2-4 from the first section above
      Prepare the Wires
      Regardless of which cable you’re making, the end that goes to the TouchPad will need all 4 wires and the resistors. So grab the 4-wire cable of your choice and strip the ends, and I recommend pre-tinning them with some solder.
      Build the TouchPad Side of the Cable
      See the image below for how to arrange the resistors. If you’re making a USB A cable, go ahead and cut into two pieces, set aside the USB A side, and grab the micro or USB C for this part.. It doesn’t matter how far away from either end you go, it’s your choice. Strip the wires back so you have enough bare wire to work with.
      1. Solder the ground (black) wire to one side of the 300k resistor.
      2. Solder data- (green), data+ (white), the other side of the 300k resistor and one side of the 250k resistor together.
      3. Then solder the other end of the 250k resistor to the red (power) wire.
      Build the Charger Side of the Cable
      If you’re making a USB A cable, then all you have left to do is reconnect power (red) and ground (black) to their corresponding colors on the TouchPad side of the cable, trim off the data lines from the USB A side, clean it all up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
      If you’re making a USB C to USB C cable grab the USB C board I linked above and your 2-wire cable (or 4-wire that you’ve trimmed the data lines from). You’ll also have to cut the end off to make room for the new connector.
      1. Pre-tin the board on the two outside pads marked as VCC and Gnd in the image below.
      2. Solder on the red (power) wire to VCC and then black (ground) to Gnd. If you bought the housing and boards together, don’t forget to the housing on the wire before you start soldering. You also may need some super glue to keep the plastic housing from coming apart.
      3. Back at the TouchPad side of the wire, take the other end of your 2-wire cable and attach red and black to their corresponding ends, clean it up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
      Final Thoughts
      You should now be able to use any charger you want to and the TouchPad will believe you’re plugged into a normal battery charger and will allow the normal charge rate flow through.
      Note, you’ve effectively removed the ability to use this cable for Data since the data lines are no longer connected.
      Also, for those who modded the TouchPad with USB C, the port already has 5.1k resistance but cannot communicate that to a USB C 3.1 charger with the added resistance on the data lines. This is why the TouchPad end of the USB C cable must be a “dumb” 4-wire USB C cable and the charger end needs the 5.1k resistance to tell the charger on that end to send power. This also means that you must remember which end is which, but don’t worry. Picking the wrong direction won’t hurt anything as the USB C charger won’t allow power since the wire doesn’t tell it to. I marked the TouchPad side of the USB C cable with a dab of orange paint pen.
      Finally, I hope you found this helpful or at the very least entertaining! I had fun exploring the different ways of making this work and so feel free to give it a watch.
      #webos4ever
      The post first appeared on . Related posts:

    • By Harisharan Khadka
      Hello, LG Webos does support Lionsgate play???
    • By pivotCE
      Well, it’s 2024 and technology continues to advance. The TouchPad isn’t new by any means, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be slightly modernized to be more convenient today. Specifically, it is entirely possible to convert the TouchPad’s Micro USB port to USB C for charging and USB storage access. I’ll show you how.
      This is a tough mod which requires micro-soldering and modifying a PCB which you will have a hard time sourcing a replacement for without buying another TouchPad. Proceed at your own peril.
      Tools for the Job
      To do this mod you’ll need a few things for tools and parts. Here’s a list of what I used:
      – Needle nose pliers/tweezers
      – USB C boards with 5.1k resistors
      link hidden, please login to view
      – Soldering iron, solder, flux and a hot air station
      – Flush cuts
      – Dremel with cutting or sanding wheel
      – 28 AWG wire or smaller. 30 AWG is pretty good but any wire around 0.25mm to 0.5mm should work.
      – Small file and screwdriver set
      – Painter’s and kapton tape
      – Metal spudger Disassemble the TouchPad
      This is where you’re going to want to get that metal spudger out and be very careful not to snap clips. I can’t explain it better than iFixit already did so go check out their and then come back here.
      Modify the USB Connector Board by Removing the Micro Port
      There are a few ways to remove the Micro USB port. I added a bunch of flux and coated all the connectors in fresh leaded solder and then used a hot air station set to 800 degrees while wiggling the port very slightly with needle nose pliers. You don’t have to be particularly careful here so if you want to cut the port off with the dremel or the flush cuts or just rip it off with the pliers, (I don’t recommend it but…) that’s fine. We’re not using the pads it’s soldered to anyway. You should STILL be careful not to crack the board. Go slow. Be patient.
      Trim the USB C Board
      We need to expose the USB C port a bit on this board so let’s cut it down. Grab the painter’s tape and flip the USB C board upside down. You’ll see a small trace between the front and rear anchor points on the right side, which we don’t want to cut. Mark the tape just on the other side of that trace like I did. Dremel along the tape line until you get to the port. You can then use needle nose pliers, a flat file, and/or flush cuts to remove the rest of the board from the bottom of the port.
      Prepare the USB Connector Board for the USB C Port
      We need to slide the port into the old space so grab the painter’s tape again and mark off the area I marked to make room for the USB C port. You can place the port up to it like I did and use that as a guide. Grab your dremel again or a similar tool and cut out what you marked off. When you’re done, the USB C port should slide easily into the groove. It will fit tighter when we add the kapton tape in a later step.
      Make Room in the TouchPad for the Added Thickness of the USB C Board
      The USB C board will sit underneath the USB connector board so we have to make room by trimming away the plastic underneath. For this you’ll need to use flush cuts or any other tool you have to chip away. You could use the dremel for this if you’d like. Be careful to not go beyond the first inner layer. Beyond that is the outer shell of the TouchPad. There’s no real method here, just cut out the screw posts and chip away. Use the pictures below as a guide.
      Cut the USB C Hole from the Old Micro USB Hole
      To open the micro USB hole enough to fit the USB C port, take a rounded file to the left and right of both sides and just file a little bit at at time. Use a small flat file to widen the top and bottom of the port. This process is just trial and error. File a little and then grab the USB C board to test. The port will need to fit inside the hole a bit so you can push it through from the outside to test the hole size if that’s easier. Note: the USB C board will likely not rest on the bottom of the TouchPad and will float a little. This is good because it makes room for your wires and a little kapton tape underneath.
      Tape the USB C Board
      Since we hacked away at the USB connector board it’s possible we’ve provided the perfect environment for creating shorts! Oh no! So get out the kapton tape because we’re going to add a layer on both sides. You’ll see how I did it on one side below. Do it on both sides. You’ll also notice how I did not cover those two small square contacts just at the bottom of the tape. That’s because we need them.
      Where To Get Power and Data
      You’ll see the diagrams below which I’ve marked with VBUS (power), data in, data out, and ground. Obviously the old port is gone and most if its pads, but I wanted to show that both sides of the board have the connections. You could possibly do this mod differently, and if you so choose, hopefully these help.
      A quick note: this mod can be done with a 4-pin USB C port. That would give you power and data just like with the USB C board I’m using in this guide, however, a 4-pin USB C board will not charge with a USB C charger (ie USB 3.1). The board I’m using in this guide provides the ability to use any charger because it comes pre-built with 5.1k resistors wired to CC1 and CC2 to ground. This is the trick that tells the USB C chargers to send power to the device.
      Solder the USB C Board into the USB Connector Board
      This isn’t a “how to solder tutorial” so hit up youtube and find a good tutorial that works for you. In general though, use flux, pre-tin the VBUS, Ground, D-, and D+ pads on the USB C board as well as the points on the bottom of the USB connector board.
      Now for the tricky part, I didn’t list it in the Tools section above, but it would really help to have magnification or a digital microscope for this. I have these things and I used both. You might have steadier hands and better eyes than me. The picture below was my first attempt of the three TouchPads I modded, and it’s not my best soldering work, but fundamentally, this is what yours should look like.
      Put the Pieces Together
      You can use a bit of kapton tape to secure the wires in place a bit more if you’d like but it’s not required. It won’t short since it’s only plastic underneath. This is all press fit into place, but if you’re uncomfortable with that, you can add a little hot glue under the board as you put it back into the TouchPad. You don’t have to put the metal shield back into place if you don’t want to. It’s all a pretty tightly fit and if you find the TouchPad screen isn’t as flush as you want, just leave the metal shield off. A little kapton tape right on top would be fine instead.
      Congrats, You Now Have USB C
      I did this mod on three TouchPads and each one works fine with any USB charger I could find, including USB C port having USB 3.1 chargers. I can also confirm the data connection works just like it should to connect via USB mode on PC. Sadly, this doesn’t do anything to stop webOS from telling you the charger you’re using isn’t the original TouchPad barrel charger, but you can make a custom cable to stop that which I’ll cover in a future article on pivotCE.

      #webOS4ever

      The post first appeared on . Related posts:

    • By netsplit
      Youtube only lets you type numbers, and not letters. Amazon doesn't let you type anything unless you use the really really really slow onscreen keyboard. It's ruining the tv experience. Can't search for topics or shows without the slow drugery of the slow remote and onscreen keyboard.
       
      Is something ms configured or is WebOs really this awful?
    • Solution For That Pollution
    • By Guy Mawson
      Spinning tadpoles while I know I have a good internet connection as verified by Speedtest on my phone!
      do they want me to upgrade my TV or use an Amazon Firestick to do anything useful? planned obsolescence again! FFS I have 70’s video games that work, but a TV bought a few years ago has been made obsolete by auto upgrades that if i don’t accept I am reprimanded by support and told to accept?
×
×
  • Create New...