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By GVK TEJA
Please add Jio cinema to WebOS store. I bought it LG TV to watch world cup but i can't. I'm so regret.
TV model: 43LJ554T
OS: WEBOS
Version: 6.10.35
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By pivotCE
I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say there are more HP TouchPads left in the world than there are their matching original barrel chargers. This means if you have a TouchPad today, you’re probably using a TouchStone, a computer, or any other random USB A charging brick to (very slowly) charge your 13 year old device. And it means you’ve seen the error message in the image above every time you’ve plugged it into anything other than the original barrel charger or a computer. Fun fact, you can trick the TouchPad into charging normally and not feeding you the message by creating your own custom micro USB or USB C cable if you’ve
link hidden, please login to view. Stuff You’ll Need
Assuming you have a micro USB (ie. non USB C modified TouchPad) you’ll need:
1. A 4-wire micro USB to USB A cable
2. and 1/4 watt resistors (1 each per cable)
3. Soldering iron and solder
4. Heat shrink or electrical tape
If you’re making a USB C cable but only want to use it with a USB A charger then you’ll need:
1. A 4 wire USB C to USB A cable
2. Items 2-4 above
If you’re making a true USB C to USB C cable that you plan to use with a USB C 3.1 charger you’ll need:
1.
2.
3. Any 2-wire cable or a 4-wire cable that you’ll cut the data wires out of (green and white typically) and that you’ll cut the ends from
4. Items 2-4 from the first section above
Prepare the Wires
Regardless of which cable you’re making, the end that goes to the TouchPad will need all 4 wires and the resistors. So grab the 4-wire cable of your choice and strip the ends, and I recommend pre-tinning them with some solder.
Build the TouchPad Side of the Cable
See the image below for how to arrange the resistors. If you’re making a USB A cable, go ahead and cut into two pieces, set aside the USB A side, and grab the micro or USB C for this part.. It doesn’t matter how far away from either end you go, it’s your choice. Strip the wires back so you have enough bare wire to work with.
1. Solder the ground (black) wire to one side of the 300k resistor.
2. Solder data- (green), data+ (white), the other side of the 300k resistor and one side of the 250k resistor together.
3. Then solder the other end of the 250k resistor to the red (power) wire.
Build the Charger Side of the Cable
If you’re making a USB A cable, then all you have left to do is reconnect power (red) and ground (black) to their corresponding colors on the TouchPad side of the cable, trim off the data lines from the USB A side, clean it all up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
If you’re making a USB C to USB C cable grab the USB C board I linked above and your 2-wire cable (or 4-wire that you’ve trimmed the data lines from). You’ll also have to cut the end off to make room for the new connector.
1. Pre-tin the board on the two outside pads marked as VCC and Gnd in the image below.
2. Solder on the red (power) wire to VCC and then black (ground) to Gnd. If you bought the housing and boards together, don’t forget to the housing on the wire before you start soldering. You also may need some super glue to keep the plastic housing from coming apart.
3. Back at the TouchPad side of the wire, take the other end of your 2-wire cable and attach red and black to their corresponding ends, clean it up with some heat shrink or electrical tape and you’re done!
Final Thoughts
You should now be able to use any charger you want to and the TouchPad will believe you’re plugged into a normal battery charger and will allow the normal charge rate flow through.
Note, you’ve effectively removed the ability to use this cable for Data since the data lines are no longer connected.
Also, for those who modded the TouchPad with USB C, the port already has 5.1k resistance but cannot communicate that to a USB C 3.1 charger with the added resistance on the data lines. This is why the TouchPad end of the USB C cable must be a “dumb” 4-wire USB C cable and the charger end needs the 5.1k resistance to tell the charger on that end to send power. This also means that you must remember which end is which, but don’t worry. Picking the wrong direction won’t hurt anything as the USB C charger won’t allow power since the wire doesn’t tell it to. I marked the TouchPad side of the USB C cable with a dab of orange paint pen.
Finally, I hope you found this helpful or at the very least entertaining! I had fun exploring the different ways of making this work and so feel free to give it a watch.
#webos4ever
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By News Reporter
Designed for the Healthcare Sector, Company’s Latest Medical Monitor
Provides Impressive Imaging and Convenient Features
SEOUL, Oct. 9, 2024 — LG Electronics (LG) is launching its new 31.5-inch surgical monitor (model 32HR734S) featuring advanced Mini LED display technology. Designed to provide color video displays of images from surgical endoscopes, laparoscopic camera systems and other compatible medical imaging systems, LG’s monitor has received 510(k) clearance from the U.S. FDA, indicating it can now be sold in the U.S. The 32HR734S’s Mini LED technology enables precise brightness control and provides a wide color range, optimizing image clarity and color, making it an ideal choice for a variety of surgical applications, including laparoscopy and endoscopy.
The 32HR734S features a 31.5-inch, 4K resolution (3,840 x 2,160) Mini-LED display leveraging thousands of tiny LED diodes as the Back Light Unit (BLU). Delivering 2,000 cd/m² peak brightness and a dynamic contrast ratio of 1,000,000:1, LG’s medical monitor leverages 1,536 local dimming zones to produce clear, detailed images and enhanced visual contrast. The display also provides excellent color consistency across the screen and boasts 98 percent coverage of the DCI-P3 color space.
In addition to its impressive visual performance, the 32HR734S delivers the durability and reliability necessary for surgical settings. Employing Optical Bonding technology, along with Anti-Glare, Anti-Reflection and Anti-Fingerprint coatings on its front, LG’s 32HR734S 4K surgical monitor ensures optimal visibility even in brightly lit operating rooms. What’s more, the front and rear of the product (IP45- and IP32-rated, respectively) offer excellent resistance to water and dust, preventing fluids or particles from disrupting monitor operation during surgeries.
The 32HR734S is also the first LG surgical monitor to incorporate the innovative Clone Screen feature. Clone Screen allows users to duplicate the image being displayed on the 32HR734S on a second monitor (connected via HDMI), significantly enhancing operational efficiency and communication within the surgical environment, especially in situations where multiple medical professionals need to view the same image.
For added versatility, the display’s Mirror Mode makes it possible to flip the on-screen image horizontally, while Rotation Mode can rotate the image 180 degrees to match the orientation of the surgical camera. The 32HR734S also provides Picture-in-Picture (PIP) and Picture-by-Picture (PBP) functionality, the latter allowing the display of up to four different image sources simultaneously. This enables medical staff to view a combination of inputs or images, such as laparoscopic and fluoroscopic images, while monitoring the patient’s vital signs at the same time.
“Featuring advanced Mini LED technology, the 32HR734S delivers the excellent picture quality and convenient functionality needed in surgical settings,” said YS Lee, vice president and head of the IT business unit of LG Business Solutions Company. “We believe our new model will significantly boost efficiency for medical professionals performing and assisting with surgeries.”
Key Specifications:
LG Surgical Monitor (32HR734S)
Size 31.5-inch Backlight Technology Mini LED Screen Resolution 4K (3,840 x 2,160) Display Panel Type IPS Aspect Ratio 16:9 Surface Treatment Protection Glass (Optical Bonding, Anti-Reflection, Anti-Fingerprint, and Anti-Glare) Color Gamut (Typ.) DCI-P3 98% Brightness (Typ.) 800cd/m² Brightness (Stabilization)
500cd/m² Peak Brightness (Typ.) 2000cd/m² Color Bit 10bit Contrast Ratio (Typ.) 1,000:1 Response Time (Gray-To-Gray)1
5ms Features DICOM Compliant Yes Hardware Calibration LG Calibration Studio HDR HDR 10, HDR Effect Video Signals Input Terminals HDMI x 1, DisplayPort x 1, SDI (12G / 3G) x 4, DVI-D x 1 Output Terminals HDMI (Clone Screen) x 1, SDI (12G / 3G) x 4 Connectivity USB USB 3.0 1 Upstream, 1 Downstream Power AC Input 100-240Vac, 50/60Hz Power Consumption 130W (Max) / Less than 0.3W (DC Off) Durability IP Resistance Rating2 IP453 (Front), IP324 (Except for Front), IK065 User
Convenience PBP Yes (2 / 3 / 4 PBP) PIP Yes Screen Flip Mirror Mode, Rotation Mode Failover Input Switch Yes Physical Specifications
Weight 9.7 kg Wall Mount Size 200 x 100 / 100 x 100 mm # # #
1 GtG: Gray-to-gray response time.
2 Tested under controlled laboratory conditions with an IP/ IK rating. Dry before using. Do not charge while wet.
3 IP45: Protected against solid foreign objects of 1.0 mm and greater / Protected against access to hazardous parts with a wire / Protected against water jets.
4 IP32: Protected against solid foreign objects of 2.5 mm and greater / Protected against access to hazardous parts with a tool / Protected against vertically falling water drops when enclosure tilted up to 15°.
5 IK06: Protected against 1-joule impacts.
*Specifications may vary by region and all features, standards, and other product specifications are subject to change without notice or obligation.
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By pivotCE
Well, it’s 2024 and technology continues to advance. The TouchPad isn’t new by any means, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be slightly modernized to be more convenient today. Specifically, it is entirely possible to convert the TouchPad’s Micro USB port to USB C for charging and USB storage access. I’ll show you how.
This is a tough mod which requires micro-soldering and modifying a PCB which you will have a hard time sourcing a replacement for without buying another TouchPad. Proceed at your own peril.
Tools for the Job
To do this mod you’ll need a few things for tools and parts. Here’s a list of what I used:
– Needle nose pliers/tweezers
– USB C boards with 5.1k resistors
link hidden, please login to view
– Soldering iron, solder, flux and a hot air station
– Flush cuts
– Dremel with cutting or sanding wheel
– 28 AWG wire or smaller. 30 AWG is pretty good but any wire around 0.25mm to 0.5mm should work.
– Small file and screwdriver set
– Painter’s and kapton tape
– Metal spudger Disassemble the TouchPad
This is where you’re going to want to get that metal spudger out and be very careful not to snap clips. I can’t explain it better than iFixit already did so go check out their and then come back here.
Modify the USB Connector Board by Removing the Micro Port
There are a few ways to remove the Micro USB port. I added a bunch of flux and coated all the connectors in fresh leaded solder and then used a hot air station set to 800 degrees while wiggling the port very slightly with needle nose pliers. You don’t have to be particularly careful here so if you want to cut the port off with the dremel or the flush cuts or just rip it off with the pliers, (I don’t recommend it but…) that’s fine. We’re not using the pads it’s soldered to anyway. You should STILL be careful not to crack the board. Go slow. Be patient.
Trim the USB C Board
We need to expose the USB C port a bit on this board so let’s cut it down. Grab the painter’s tape and flip the USB C board upside down. You’ll see a small trace between the front and rear anchor points on the right side, which we don’t want to cut. Mark the tape just on the other side of that trace like I did. Dremel along the tape line until you get to the port. You can then use needle nose pliers, a flat file, and/or flush cuts to remove the rest of the board from the bottom of the port.
Prepare the USB Connector Board for the USB C Port
We need to slide the port into the old space so grab the painter’s tape again and mark off the area I marked to make room for the USB C port. You can place the port up to it like I did and use that as a guide. Grab your dremel again or a similar tool and cut out what you marked off. When you’re done, the USB C port should slide easily into the groove. It will fit tighter when we add the kapton tape in a later step.
Make Room in the TouchPad for the Added Thickness of the USB C Board
The USB C board will sit underneath the USB connector board so we have to make room by trimming away the plastic underneath. For this you’ll need to use flush cuts or any other tool you have to chip away. You could use the dremel for this if you’d like. Be careful to not go beyond the first inner layer. Beyond that is the outer shell of the TouchPad. There’s no real method here, just cut out the screw posts and chip away. Use the pictures below as a guide.
Cut the USB C Hole from the Old Micro USB Hole
To open the micro USB hole enough to fit the USB C port, take a rounded file to the left and right of both sides and just file a little bit at at time. Use a small flat file to widen the top and bottom of the port. This process is just trial and error. File a little and then grab the USB C board to test. The port will need to fit inside the hole a bit so you can push it through from the outside to test the hole size if that’s easier. Note: the USB C board will likely not rest on the bottom of the TouchPad and will float a little. This is good because it makes room for your wires and a little kapton tape underneath.
Tape the USB C Board
Since we hacked away at the USB connector board it’s possible we’ve provided the perfect environment for creating shorts! Oh no! So get out the kapton tape because we’re going to add a layer on both sides. You’ll see how I did it on one side below. Do it on both sides. You’ll also notice how I did not cover those two small square contacts just at the bottom of the tape. That’s because we need them.
Where To Get Power and Data
You’ll see the diagrams below which I’ve marked with VBUS (power), data in, data out, and ground. Obviously the old port is gone and most if its pads, but I wanted to show that both sides of the board have the connections. You could possibly do this mod differently, and if you so choose, hopefully these help.
A quick note: this mod can be done with a 4-pin USB C port. That would give you power and data just like with the USB C board I’m using in this guide, however, a 4-pin USB C board will not charge with a USB C charger (ie USB 3.1). The board I’m using in this guide provides the ability to use any charger because it comes pre-built with 5.1k resistors wired to CC1 and CC2 to ground. This is the trick that tells the USB C chargers to send power to the device.
Solder the USB C Board into the USB Connector Board
This isn’t a “how to solder tutorial” so hit up youtube and find a good tutorial that works for you. In general though, use flux, pre-tin the VBUS, Ground, D-, and D+ pads on the USB C board as well as the points on the bottom of the USB connector board.
Now for the tricky part, I didn’t list it in the Tools section above, but it would really help to have magnification or a digital microscope for this. I have these things and I used both. You might have steadier hands and better eyes than me. The picture below was my first attempt of the three TouchPads I modded, and it’s not my best soldering work, but fundamentally, this is what yours should look like.
Put the Pieces Together
You can use a bit of kapton tape to secure the wires in place a bit more if you’d like but it’s not required. It won’t short since it’s only plastic underneath. This is all press fit into place, but if you’re uncomfortable with that, you can add a little hot glue under the board as you put it back into the TouchPad. You don’t have to put the metal shield back into place if you don’t want to. It’s all a pretty tightly fit and if you find the TouchPad screen isn’t as flush as you want, just leave the metal shield off. A little kapton tape right on top would be fine instead.
Congrats, You Now Have USB C
I did this mod on three TouchPads and each one works fine with any USB charger I could find, including USB C port having USB 3.1 chargers. I can also confirm the data connection works just like it should to connect via USB mode on PC. Sadly, this doesn’t do anything to stop webOS from telling you the charger you’re using isn’t the original TouchPad barrel charger, but you can make a custom cable to stop that which I’ll cover in a future article on pivotCE.
#webOS4ever
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By Dann
Bonjour à tous
Je viens d'acquérir une tv LG oled 48c3 que je veux brancher sur une barre de sons Sennheiser ambeo mini.
Côté Sennheiser c'est assez simple, mais de celui de lg c'est plus compliqué, vu toutes les possibilités de réglages .
Sur la tv LG une sortie eHDMI que je branche sur entré eHDMI de la barre de sons.
Le son ne sort pas sur celle-ci qui est en marche.
Je pense qu'il y-a un réglage que je ne sais pas faire, quelqu'un peut-il m'aider?
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Question
Paul1111111
I updated to webos 05.60.15 recently and now a mini guide incessantly pops up every time I change the channel. It's there any way to stop this or opt out of the mini guide coming up all the time?
4 answers to this question
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